Savory Valais Cholera Tart

As the world is hunkering down at home trying to figure out how to navigate through the coronavirus pandemic, I thought it might be of interest to research and share the recipe for a meal some Swiss resorted to during the Cholera pandemic almost 200 years ago.

Cholera Tart or Cholera Cake (a hearty, savory dish consisting of a pastry shell packed with a dense filling) was, supposedly, developed in the Valais region of Switzerland in 1832 when the Cholera pandemic that was sweeping the world began taking its toll in that region.

Seemingly healthy people were suddenly taken ill by this mysterious and terrifying disease, often dying a horrible death within hours or days.  Too afraid to venture out for fresh meats, vegetables and fruits, people hunkered down in their homes and survived on whatever was in their larder.  Not surprisingly, modern day recipes only bear some resemblance to the meal prepared from scraped-together ingredients.  Said to include scraps of cured or dried meats, produce that could be stored for long periods such as potatoes, cabbage and onions, most likely dried rather than fresh apples and pears and a full-flavored cheese all encased in a pastry shell – Cholera Cake (or Tart) was an attempt to make a tasty dish from some rather bland ingredients.  To learn more, here is the link to my radio program on this dish.

Despite the unappetizing name, I think the recipe I developed after researching the history is quite delicious.  A printable recipe can be found at the bottom.  Begin by gathering ingredients for the filling. Whatever is in the larder, although for this recipe, I used leeks (onions may be substituted), cabbage, apples, potatoes, lardon (a slab of bacon), thyme and a full-flavored Gruyère cheese.

Place waxy, low starch potatoes in a pot of water with some salt.  Bring to a boil and simmer until cooked through.  If potatoes are large, cut them in half or quarters before  boiling.

While potatoes are cooking, add bacon or finely cut pieces of lardon to a skillet and cook over medium heat.

When crispy, and all the fat has rendered out,  remove the pieces with a slotted spoon and set aside in a large bowl.

Stem, clean and halve leeks.  Slice lengthwise.  Make thin, crosswise slices beginning at the base. Stop cutting when the tough tops are reached.

Add the cut leeks to the hot skillet.  Add oil, if necessary.  Cook until softened and lightly colored.

Remove from the skillet with a slotted spoon and add to the bowl with the bacon.  Core and chop the cabbage.

Add the cabbage to the hot skillet.  Add oil, if necessary.  Cook until softened and lightly colored.

Add the cabbage to the cooked bacon and leeks.  Salt and pepper, to taste, and stir to combine.  If desired, add a pinch of dried sage, thyme or rosemary.

When the potatoes are cooked through, drain and peel (if have not peeled before cooking).  Slice into discs or chunks.

Peel, core and slice apples.  Cut slices from two of the apples into quarters.  Cut remaining slices in half to use decoratively on top (as one does during a pandemic!).

Grate a very flavorful cheese.  The other ingredients are somewhat bland-flavored so the more flavorful the cheese, the more flavorful the final dish.

To prepare the crust, line a deep cake pan (preferably with removable sides) with puff pastry dough. Purchased or homemade pâte brisée or, less desirable, pie crust can also be used.  Crimp the top edges.

Having filling ingredients ready to assemble.

Place half of the potatoes at the bottom.  Top with half the quartered apple slices, half the grated cheese then half of the cabbage/leek/bacon mixture.

Repeat.

Top with larger apple slices.

Bake until the apples are soft and the crust is golden brown.  If the topping browns too quickly, lightly tent it with a piece of foil and continue baking until the crust has browned.

When the pan has cooled a bit, remove the spring locked sides.  Do not attempt to un-mold if using a deep dish casserole or pan with non-removeable sides.

Dig in!  Serve warm or at room temperature.

Store leftovers, covered, in the refrigerator.  Reheat in the oven until just warmed through.

(Note:  This horrible, preventable and treatable disease prevails in poorer countries.  To learn more about Cholera and what can be done to help, please go to this link for the World Health Organization.)